The twelfth month

The warmth of summer has long left us, though we recall its presence fondly. Precipitation occurs not in the form of that which flows through rivers, but as sparkles in the light. Even the animals outside are quieter at night. The nine nines of Winter are upon us.

December 22^nd marked the start of Mongolian Winter, which is measured in what is known as the nine nines. In the tradition of the nomads, where time is estimated by the angle of the sun that shines into the ger, winter is tracked in series of nine days, each of which have estimated temperature ranges:

1^st nine: homemade milk vodka freezes

2^nd nine: vodka freezes

3^rd nine: tail of a three-year-old ox freezes

4^th nine: horns of a four-year-old ox freezes

5^th nine: boiled rice no longer congeals

6^th nine: roads blacken

7^th nine: hilltops blacken

8^th nine: ground becomes damp

9^th nine: warm days set in

The third and fourth series (mid to late January) are known to be the coldest and, as we pass the midpoint of Winter, Tsagaan Sar is held in mid-February to celebrate the coming Spring. Having mentioned the approach of seasonal warmth, let me point out the fact that snow will still be present in March and possibly into May. However, I promote the idea that many should rejoice in the difference between -40º F and 15º F. Discounting wind chill (which has a serious effect here), the coldest I've seen so far was around -22º F, so there's still a bit to go in my personal record lows. However, my life has already seen new events that precipitated from the cool weather.

• While walking around the outdoor market a couple weeks ago, I realized that my eye had frozen partially shut. Steam from my mouth had condensed, then frozen, on my eyelashes, which was unexpected. It was easily remedied and felt like those mornings where you wake up with super crusty eyes.  

• After spending a week away from my ger (I was warm and clean in a hotel in the city for training), I returned to find items that are generally considered “cold, dry storage items” do not agree with that title. Potatoes had somewhat liquefied and left a brown pool beneath them. Fresh ginger root had shriveled a little (looked slightly dehydrated), but the inside had become juicy. Garlic cloves had swollen out of their casings, browned, and made my home smell oddly like kim-chi. A wine bottle had popped the cork out, but I'd foreseen that one happening. This is what happens when you don't keep a fire going. In another episode, I spent one night away and returned to find my water basin with a half inch of ice in it.

• With the nearby river frozen over and the water trough near the well house in the same condition, I've found myself battling cattle while filling my water containers. An electric pump pulls the water from underground, so the water is liquid, but extremely cold. The cows tried to push me aside and lick from the hose as it filled my vessels.

• Sawing wood when it is -20º F is extremely difficult. My double-gloved fingers went numb quickly and it's hard to catch my breath through the scarf that is protecting my lips and nose. I took advantage of this week's heat streak (we hit 0º F!) to spend a couple hours sawing yesterday. My body is adjusting to the cold, as demonstrated by the fact that I wore only a hooded sweatshirt to spend this time sawing. Next year, I will saw as much wood as possible before December. I will. Please don't let me forget.